Our green day out in the Serrania de Ronda’s Guadiaro Valley

We’ve done “our green day out” twice in recent months, in December and in April, and once in each direction. Whatever the season or whichever way round you do it, it’s a fantastic way to spend a half-day, writes Paul Whitelock.

In fact, the valley of the River Guadiaro between Benaoján and Jimera de Líbar offers several options. Either catch the train from Benaoján-Montejaque station for the seven-minute train ride to Jimera de Líbar and walk back to your car in time for lunch in the former railway-shed-turned-restaurant El Muelle, at the cheap-but-cheerful Bar Stop or Bar Cantina Estación, or at the Hotel Molino del Santo, a restored olive mill, a short walk from the station. Or do it the other way round and walk from Benaoján to Jimera in time for a late lunch or tapas in Bar Allioli, before catching the train back.

Whichever way you do it, you’ll walk through some of the most stunning scenery around. The fast-flowing Guadiaro, which winds its way through the valley, accompanies you for large parts of this walk, as does the single-track railway line which takes trains from Granada to Algeciras along a picturesque route built by Scottish engineer, Sir Brodie Henderson, at the beginning of the 20th century.

With the sheer limestone mountains of the Serranía de Ronda on one side and rolling hills, lush with vegetation, on the other, this is a really pretty way to get those leg muscles working and your heart pumping.

Whether in the middle of winter when everywhere is still green, or in early spring when the wildflowers are blooming and the trees blossoming, you’ll marvel at the beauty of nature. In the summer set off early or late or you’ll frazzle in the sun.

En route you’ll see rabbits, goats and wild boar, as well as pretty butterflies and circling griffon vultures. You’ll meet other walkers too, who are all friendly and game for a chat. The last time we did this outing, we met Spaniards from all over Spain, several Germans and some Spanish-looking ladies who spoke perfect English – they were Gibraltarians, glad to escape the narrow confines of The Rock to enjoy the wide-open spaces of this part of southern Andalucía.

Lunch at Asador El Muelle is a hearty good-value affair, with a wide choice of meats and fish grilled on their wood-burning stove, supported by hearty salads and porra antequerana, a tasty cold soup made from blended tomato, bread and garlic with a tuna garnish, not dissimilar to the more well-known gazpacho. The meat and fish main courses are hearty plates full and are enjoyed by a predominantly Spanish clientele, always a good sign. You escape from here for about 15 euros per head, including drinks.

At the more fundamental Café-Bar Stop you can get a hearty three-course menú del día for about eight euros, bread and wine included, if you can get a seat. This is a very popular eating place, run with utter efficiency by the formidable Anita. But note that they are closed on Saturdays.

Even cheaper, but charming nevertheless with its outside terrace on the station platform and a super display of flowers, is the Bar Cantina Estación. No menu of the day, but a choice of about 10 platos del día at realistic prices. On Saturdays, they have a barbecue with a good choice of meat and fish to whet the appetite.

Café Bar La Esquina has tapas, pizzas, sandwiches, mixed dishes, breakfast, snacks and drinks. Closed on Tuesdays.